How I Make Inchies

Instructor: Sandra Hamilton

There is only one rule when making inchies.  You must do enough stitching on the sandwich to hold the layers together when you cut it up.

What are inchies?  They are tiny works of art around 1 inch square.  When we talk about quilted inchies I think they should be 3 layers held together by stitches or they are not a quilt.  They can be displayed together to create an art piece or used individually for things like charms to mark your scissors, to decorate greeting cards, as zipper pulls and any other use that sounds fun.

1.       The sandwich.  First we make a sandwich that is then cut up to the size required.

A 6.5 inch square sandwich yields:    36   1 inch inchies

 16   1.5 inch inchies

                                                  9      2 inch inchies.

I like working with 1.5 inch inchies best.  There is more room for embellishments.

Traditionally very heavy interfacing such as Pelltex or Timtex is used for inchies but I substitute batting.  I like to see texture from my quilting on the surface of the inchies and I find heavy interfacing hard to stitch through when hand embellishing.

The  sandwich I make for inchies has 4 layers going from the back to the top fabric

a)      Backing fabric.  May be omitted if all the inchies are going to be displayed in a way that hides their backs.

b)      Stiff interfacing (e.g. Decobond).  This adds body to the inchie sandwich and makes it easier to finish the edges.

c)      Batting.  I use whatever small pieces I have.

d)      Top fabric.  This may be interfaced with a light non woven interfacing if some stitching is going to be added before the sandwich is made.

              2.  Embellishments.  I like to think of the various embellishments that go on the inchies as layers.  Use as many as you think will work for your project.

a)      Couching decorative threads.  The first layer is couching of decorative threads, yarns, ribbons, etc.  May be done on the faced top fabric or on the sandwich.  The thread used for couching can match or contrast with the material being couched.  Or use invisible thread.  Use a neutral or matching thread in the bobbin.  Choose a zig zag stitch that matches the width of the couched material or use some other stitch such as a blanket stitch 

b)      Decorative stitches.  May be done on the faced top fabric or on the sandwich.  Choose decorative threads and decorative stitches on your machine.  I usually use 2 or 3 different threads.

Things to remember when you are doing decorative stiches:- ·    Long patterns will distort if you turn the fabric at the wrong time. ·    Some stitches work better without the batting. ·    My favourite stitch is triple straight stitch which is a utility stitch on most machines meant for use on knits. ·    Dense stitches with lots of thread may distort the fabric and may be hard to stitch through at later stages. ·    Leave room for quilting and to hand embellish.

c)      Quilting.  There must be at least one line of stitching through each one inch square (for 1 inch inchies) or the layers will not stay together when the sandwich is cut up.  Quilting may be done with a regular foot, walking foot or quilting foot and free motion stitching.  Use thread to contrast or match your fabric.

d)      Hand embellishment.   See later in this handout.

3.  Cutting the sandwich into inchies.

·         Straighten one edge of your sandwich and cut it into strips of the required size and then into squares or rectangles.   

·         There is no rule that says all your inchies have to be the same size.  This depends on the look you want for your project. 

·         It is harder to finish the edges of curves than straight lines.

4.  Finishing the Edges.

You can finish the edge by hand or machine.  Traditional edging is either a zig-zag stitch or a satin stitch.  It is possible to finish the edge by couching a cord to the edge.  I have never tried to bind the edge of an inchie but there is not a rule saying you can’t.

Zig-zag the edges. 

Set the machine for a narrow width and a short length.  I usually start with both settings at 2 and adjust from there.

 Choose a thicker thread and decide if you want the same thread in the bobbin.  I sometimes use a fine neutral thread in the bobbin and find that it allows the top thread to be drawn around the edge.

Position the middle of one side of the inchie under the foot with the edge lined up with the middle of the foot. Your zig-zag stitches should be half on and half off the edge of the inchie.  

If there is a second rule to making inchies this is it.  Zig-zag stitches should go half on and half off the edge being stitched.

Stitch to the corner and stop with the needle down on the right hand swing.  Lift the foot a little and turn the inchie 90 deg against the needle.  Continue to the next corner and repeat.

Continue until you come back to where you started.  Take a few tiny stitches to lock your thread.

Satin Stitch the Edges

Set the machine for a narrow stich width and a short stitch length.  The stitch length usually needs to be under 1 and usually closer to .05.  Start in the middle of one side and use the technique above to finish the edge, turn corners and to finish off the stitching.


5.  Hand Embellishment.

Hand embellishment can be anything from sewing on a button with 2 holes with matching thread to adding multiple embroidery stitches.  Refer to a book of embroidery stitches or search on line.  Try this link https://pintangle.com/tast-faq/  This site is based in Australia.  Be aware that buttonhole stitch and blanket stitch are often used interchangeable but in fact are 2 different stitches.  This applies to some other stitches as well.

a)      Sewing on buttons.

 I often use seed beads to hold buttons in place. 

·         This can be simple:  come up through a hole in the button, pick up a seed bead or two and go back down the same hole.  Repeat for the other holes.

·         More complicated:  come up through a hole in the button, pick up 3 or 4 seed beads and go back down a different hole.

·         More complicated still:  sew the button in place with a couple of stitches then come up a hole in the button, pick up enough beads to reach over the edge of the button and make a stitch at the edge of the button.  Repeat as many times as you like.  This can get to a point where there are too many beads on top of the button to get through a hole in the button again.  Be creative.  Pass your thread through a couple of beads, pick up a few more beads and attach the string to other beads.

© Sandra Hamilton  Nov 2019

Postcards

I am working on postcards for the CQA challenge.  Postcards collected will be sold to raise money for the Glenrose Hospital in Edmonton during Quilt Canada 2020.  See details here.  https://canadianquilter.com/quilted-postcard-challenge-2020/

I have been making postcards for years.  I like making small projects that allow me to use up scraps and to try new things.  Now I know there are lots of you tube videos telling us how to make postcards but I my own method which I would like to share.

Guilds may copy and share these for use by their members who are supporting a worthy cause and donating postcards to this, or other, fundraisers.  I will be preparing demonstrations of various techniques over the length of the challenge so check back here.

This is an easy technique. It is a left over piece from a panel.  Add batting, a little quilting and a back layer.  Finish the edges and you are done.

 Making Postcards

 

CQA challenge requires post cards to be 4x6 or 6x4.  The theme is Inspired by Nature.  Sew a label to the back with  your name, city, quilt name and email address.  There are more details here https://canadianquilter.com/quilted-postcard-challenge-2020/

Post cards are small projects that don’t take much material or time.  Some directions have a long list of requirements but they can be made with scraps and left overs and they are a great place to try new things.

Things to consider

The only rules are the one devised by Canada Post.  To send a post card through the mail at standard letter rate your art work must meet Canada Post’s definition of a post card which can be found here.  https://www.canadapost.ca/tools/pg/manual/PGletterml-e.asp#1397895  

The traditional size for a postcard is 4x6 inches which is slightly bigger than the minimum size accepted by the post office.

A fabric  post card usually has 3 parts.

Front.  Just about anything goes.  But think about the sorting machines at the post office.  Embellishments should not catch on the machinery. If you use lace or other loose embellishments it would probably be better to mail it in a “Crystal Clear Self-Sealing Bag” or clear envelope (I found some in a dollar store ).

I choose fabric for the front of my postcard, cut it about 5 x 7 inches and mark the 4 x 6 inch lines so my design doesn’t wander off the post card.  I layer this fabric to light or heavy weight iron on interfacing and/or batting depending on what technique I am going to use. 

e.g. a light weight interfacing works well with handstitching.

 a heavy weight one works better for thread play and heavy embellishments.

batting works well with machine quilting.

Some things to consider for the front of your postcard.

A left over block cut to size.

Random scraps of fabric layered onto a fusible web.

Pictures cut out of left over fabric and fused in place.

Doodling with your machine on fabric and colouring in your doodles.

A whole cloth quilt.

Embroidery by hand or machine.

If you are planning on free motion quilting it is easier to layer 2 or 3 fronts on one piece of batting.  They are easier to manipulate under the foot that way.  I think this also applies to thread painting.

Batting layer.  Most books and tutorials about postcards recommend a heavy interfacing e.g. Pelltex, Timtex etc. as the batting layer.  It gives the post card a nice stiffness but is hard to hand stitch through.  I prefer to use a scrap of batting.  I add the stiffening with the backing layer.

Backing.  It should be pale in colour and not allow lines to show through as the message and address must be legible.  I usually add heavy iron on interfacing, card stock or whatever comes to hand to stiffen my post card.  If I have used card stock I will add a fabric layer over it so that a satin stich edge does not tear the card stock.  I baste it is place with regular glue stick before finishing the edges of the postcard.

Finishing.The edge finishing is usually satin stitch, zig zag stitch or a blanket stitch done by machine.  I use a few dabs from a glue stick to hold the backing in place while I trim the card to size and finish the edges.  If you choose to do a zig zag stitch around the edge of your post card try to position the edge in the center of the foot so the zig half of the stitch is on the card and the zag  half is off the card.  I usually sign my post cards with a fine tip pen as small as I can write across the bottom edge of the back with “hand made by Sandra Hamilton”. 

I usually ask for my postcard to be hand cancelled at the post office.  It leads to some interesting conversations that may include other postal workers and the customer in line behind you.

© Sandra Hamilton

Post Cards

How I Make Postcards.

Post cards are a great way to sample new things.  I especially like to try new surface design techniques.  A fat 1/8^th of fabric will make 3 postcards.  I have been doing some sun prints with maple leaves and fabric paint this summer.  What about using childrens’ art work as a jumping off point?  Adding seed beads, buttons, ribbons, lace, stitches and other embellishments are possibilities.

You can think of a post card as a little quilt, a chance to work in mixed media, or a piece of fiber art. There are lots of tutorials and videos on line with ways to make postcards.  Just type fabric postcards into a search engine. Here are 2 I have read. http://killerbeedesigns.com/blog1/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/general-fabric-postcard-killer-bee-designs.pdf     http://quilting.about.com/od/quiltpatternsprojects/ss/fabric_postcard.htm 

There are some considerations specific to postcards and I have some hints that may help.  

1.  To send a post card through the mail it must be what Canada Post calls a postcard.

Canada Post says postcards have minimum dimensions of 140mm x 90mm (5.6 x 3.6 inches) with thickness between 1.8 mm (0.007inches) and 20 mm or (0.8 inches).  I have used a maximum thickness of ¼ inch including embellishments.  Anything that is a not standard size usually requires extra postage.  Information from Canada Post is at https://www.canadapost.ca/tools/pg/manual/PGletterml-e.asp#1392028 

2. Materials to use.

1. Batting layer.  Most books and tutorials about postcards recommend a heavy interfacing e.g. Pelltex, Timtex etc. as the batting layer.  It gives the post card a nice stiffness but is hard to hand stitch through.

I prefer to use a scrap of batting and add a layer or two of a heavy non woven interfacing to stiffen my post card at the end.  This can sometimes act as the back of the postcard as well.

2. Front of the postcard.   I choose fabric for the front of my postcard and cut it about 5 x 7 inches and mark the 4 x 6 inch lines so I don’t let my design wander off the post card.  I decide if I need to add an interfacing to it as a stabilizer. This may be a heavy interfacing or a lighter one.  It depends on what kind of stitching I am planning.  A light interfacing is better for hand stitching or a small amount of machine applique but a  heavy one works better for thread painting by machine.

1. Quilting.  I add whatever I am using for batting and add some quilting, usually without a backing layer.  
2. Finishing .   The backing must allow the name, address and message to be written on it.  I use plain pale coloured cotton, heavy interfacing or stiff card.  It should hide any stitching so as not to interfere with the writing.  The edge finishing is usually satin stitch, zig zag stitch or a blanket  stitch done by machine.  I use a few dabs from a glue stick to hold the backing in place while I trim the card to size and finish the edges.  If you choose to do a zig zag stitch around the edge of your post card try to position the edge of the card in the center of the foot so the zig half the stitch is on the card and the zag  half is off the card.  

I usually sign my post cards with a fine tip pen as small as I can write across the bottom edge of the back with “hand made by Sandra Hamilton”.  Or I initial or sign the front.

Have fun making post cards.  If you want to practice try some Christmas ones All you need is a piece of Christmas fabric and a bit of glitz.  

 I usually ask for my postcard to be hand cancelled at the post office.  It leads to some interesting conversations.

The postcards above are for the EDQG brown bag raffle tomorrow night.  I hope we have a successful raffle.  It is to raise money to endow scholarships at the U of A.  

The Edmonton and District Quilt Guild is having what we call a brown bag raffle to raise money for the scholarships we endow at the University of Alberta's School of Human Ecology.  For anyone asking what a brown bag raffle is, it is one of those raffles where one puts the ticket one has bought in the "brown bag" next to the prize one wants to win
This years raffle is asking members to make a set of 3 fabric post cards to be used as the prizes.  To help in this effort I have written up the way I make postcards and here it is.

Postcards and some thoughts on how to make them.

Post cards are fun to make and a great place to try new things, use up little bits of left over fabric that are too pretty to throw away and to add embellishments.

This is how I make post cards and why I do it my way. Search fabric post cards on line to find lots of tutorials, other advice and to see some interesting post cards.

1.  To send a post card through the mail it must be what Canada Post calls a post card.

Canada Post says postcards are a minimum dimension of  140mm x 90mm (5.6 x 3.6 inches) with a thickness no less than 18 mm (0.007inches).  The maximum thickness in 20 mm or (0.8 inches)  According to my notes from a couple of years ago Canada Post gave 0.2 inches as the standard acceptable thickness.  The 0.8 inches is from the table where it says maximum acceptable and I would guess the extra postage might apply so lets stick to 0.2 inches.  It needs to be stiff enough to withstand processing without difficulty.  That is actually been given a limit to the amount of sag.  So “The Great Canadian Snapshot” size of 4 X 6 inches meets the post office requirement .  It requires the same stamp as a letter.  To look at the regulation yourself go here https://www.canadapost.ca/tools/pg/manual/PGletterml-e.asp#1392028


Most books and tutorials about postcards recommend a heavy interfacing  e..g. Pelltex, Timtex etc.  I am not fond of them because they are hard to hand embellish and I find they can be expensive especially if you get the ones with glue on both sides.  So what do I use.
Top layer  Fabric of whatever suits my intended design or happens to be falling out of a box or needs a new home.  This is a good place to use things that can't go in a functional quilt that will require washing.  Who washes postcards?

Middle layer.  As likely as not I will use a scrap of batting.  It is often right there as it has been trimmed of something else.  It stitches nicely.  It allows your quilting to show.

Backing.  Now we have to think a bit about our choices.  It needs to be pale so it can be written on, and fairly sturdy.  I often use couple of layers of interfacing.  I buy it at a regular fabric store and choose the stiffest non woven available.  I use both iron on and non iron on or sew in.  Deco bond is one brand that is available.

I think of postcards as fabric or mixed media art and if I use these terms I don’t have to quilt it. Quilts are considered a 3 layer sandwich held together by stitching.  Timtex or other stiff material is often used as batting.

Ideas for the quilt top:
1. Applique: Machine applique using fusible web
Machine applique without fusible web
Other favourite applique method
2. Piecing. Any block that you like can be used.  The finished block has to be 6 inches or less x 4 or less.  A block that finishes at 4 inches square will require sashing on 2 edges.
3. Thread play, painting foiling, embellishment but watch the thickness.
4. Any other technique you want to try.
Search the internet for Fabric Post cards for tutorials.  Here are a couple of addresses to get you started.
http://killerbeedesigns.com/blog1/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/general-fabric-postcard-killer-bee-designs.pdf
http://quilting.about.com/od/quiltpatternsprojects/ss/fabric_postcard.htm

Weekly Art Project Week 7 Pumpkin

Pumpkin.

This quilt was inspired by the season, Halloween and Jean Wells book Intuitive Colour and Design.  While reading the book it occurred to me that her technique would work for a quiltlet about pumpkins or jack-o-lanterns.  I couldn't find any carved pumpkins so went to the grocery and photographed the boxes of pumpkings wainting to be taken home for carving.  This is the picture I selected.

And then after pulling out a bunch of orange fabrics I decided I could add to the challenge by restricting myself to my scrap bucket.  After all I only needed small pieces.  And then I quilted it using my new 6 inch arc ruler on my Janome with the new ruler foot.  It was a fun exercise.

Weekly Art Project Week 6 The Hag

Weekly Art Project.  Week 6

The Hag

This quiltlette was inspired by the season, its Halloween here and it is quite a deal.  All the stores are decorated and selling candy and decorations.  It gets more commercial every year.  

I have a doodle that looks like a ghost (glued into my journal maybe 4 or 5 years ago)  and I drew the face to add to it.  I want to do a quilt of the ghost of sewing rooms past.  Maybe for next halloween!

Once I added the face to the background I couldn't figure our where to go next.  It finally came together slow step by slow step.